Overview

This task covers taking up an existing floor covering (carpet, sheet vinyl, tile, or old laminate/hardwood) and getting the bare subfloor clean, sound, and level enough for a new floor to go down. It's a common first phase before any flooring upgrade and is realistic for a homeowner with basic tools and some patience, though the specifics of removal vary a bit depending on what's currently on the floor.

Tools & materials

  • Pry bar and flat utility bar
  • Utility knife with extra blades
  • Floor scraper or long-handled scraper
  • Hammer and nail puller pliers
  • Chisel and putty knife
  • Oscillating multi-tool (helpful for cutting around cabinets and tight edges)
  • Heat gun (for stubborn adhesive on old vinyl/tile)
  • Wet/dry shop vacuum
  • Moisture meter
  • Floor leveling compound and a trowel
  • Replacement subfloor material (plywood or OSB) if sections are damaged
  • Screws or ring-shank nails and a drill/driver
  • Contractor trash bags for disposal
  • Heavy-duty work gloves, knee pads, dust mask/respirator, and safety glasses

Steps

  1. Clear the room of furniture and remove shoe molding or baseboards with a putty knife and pry bar, labeling pieces if you plan to reuse them.
  2. If the flooring is carpet: cut it into 3-4 foot strips with a utility knife, roll and bag each strip, then pull up the padding and staples, and pry out the tack strips around the perimeter.
  3. If the flooring is sheet vinyl or vinyl tile: start at a seam or edge with a scraper or putty knife, working in sections, and use a heat gun to soften stubborn glued areas as you go.
  4. If the flooring is ceramic or stone tile: break tiles with a hammer and chisel (or a demolition hammer for larger areas) and pry up pieces along with the thinset, working carefully to avoid gouging the subfloor.
  5. For any flooring type, remove remaining fasteners (staples, nails, screws) and scrape off leftover adhesive or thinset residue until the subfloor surface is clean.
  6. Vacuum the subfloor thoroughly and inspect it for soft spots, rot, staining, or squeaks by walking the room and pressing on suspect areas.
  7. Secure any loose subfloor panels by driving screws or ring-shank nails into the joists beneath them.
  8. Cut out and replace any damaged sections of plywood or OSB subfloor, fastening new panels flush with the surrounding surface.
  9. Check the floor for level and flat spots with a straightedge or level, and fill low spots or seams with floor leveling compound, letting it cure fully per the product instructions.
  10. Test moisture levels with a moisture meter, especially on concrete or if you suspect past leaks, and address any elevated readings before installing new flooring.
  11. Give the subfloor a final sweep and vacuum so it's clean, dry, and debris-free before your new flooring goes down.

Safety warnings

  • Wear knee pads, since most of this work is done kneeling or crouching close to the floor.
  • Wear heavy-duty work gloves to protect against sharp tack strips, staples, and broken tile edges.
  • Wear a dust mask or respirator and safety glasses when scraping, sanding, or breaking up old flooring, since it kicks up dust and debris.
  • Handle utility knives and scrapers with care, always cutting or scraping away from your body.
  • Use caution with a heat gun near flooring adhesive — keep it moving and avoid prolonged direct heat on one spot to prevent overheating fumes or scorching.
  • Keep the work area ventilated, especially when using adhesive removers or a heat gun.
  • Vinyl tile, sheet flooring, or black mastic adhesive installed before the 1980s can contain asbestos - before scraping, sanding, or using a heat gun on old flooring or its adhesive, consider a certified lab test kit (or a professional test), since disturbing it dry is when fibers become airborne.

When to call a pro

  • You find soft, spongy, or visibly rotted subfloor panels once the old flooring is removed.
  • There's a musty smell, dark staining, or other signs of past water damage or mold underneath the flooring.
  • The subfloor is out of level by more than about 3/16 inch over 10 feet even after attempting to fill and level it.
  • You discover extensive damage to floor joists rather than just the subfloor sheathing itself.
  • The home was built before 1980 and the old flooring, backing, or adhesive could be an older material you're unsure how to identify or handle safely.
  • Multiple layers of old flooring are glued down so aggressively that removal is damaging the subfloor structure itself.
  • Testing confirms (or you strongly suspect) asbestos in the old flooring, backing, or adhesive - stop removal and call a certified asbestos abatement professional rather than continuing to scrape, sand, or heat it yourself.

Cost estimate

Roughly $1-$3 per sq ft in materials/tools if doing it yourself (leveling compound, replacement panels, disposal fees); professional removal and haul-away often runs $2-$5+ per sq ft

Sources